Figure 1	Figure 2	Figure 3	Figure 4	Figure 5
Figure 6	Figure 7	Figure 8	Figure 9	Figure 10

Figure 1 : This shows the standard setup with the wheels on.
Figure 2 : Firstly jack up the car with a trolley jack and place some axle stands under the front and for extra safety put some blocks behind the rear wheels.
Figure 3 : Undo the top bolt of the Caliper Body which is the Lock Pin (marked L) these may be tight so I used an extended wrench.
Figure 4 : Undo the bottom bolt of the Caliper Body which is the Guide Pin (marked G). Remove the old Pads from the assembly.
Figure 5 : Tie up the Caliper Body to the Suspension springs trying not to kink the brake line hoses, this will stop any pressure being put on the hoses as well.
Figure 6 : Caliper Support Bracket
Figure 7 : Release the Caliper Support bracket from the Front Stut Assembly.
Figure 8 : Clean and repaint if required.
Figure 9 : Carefully tap the old disc with a wooden/rubber mallet to loosen it from the hub and remove. (sometimes it can be corroded on, so apply some WD40 and leave for 10 mins to soak in). Using some G Clamps or mole grips to push the pistons back into the housings.
Figure 10 : Fit the new disc to the hub unit, bolt the Caliper Support bracket back to the Front Stut Assembly. Insert your new EBC Pads, applying a small amount of Copperslip to the backs of the pads. Replace the Caliper Body over the pads ensuring the pistons are retracted totally. Replace the Lock Pin (Fig 3) and Guide Pin (Fig 4) and tighten both to 74Nm. Now Pump the brake pedal until it becomes firm.

Open the bonnet and check the Brake fluid level to ensure it has not risen over the MAX mark if so remove the excess.
Re-assemble your wheels etc and lower the car back down.

Road Test : At first the brakes will feel worse that ever so slowly drive around for a few miles applying the brakes every now and then till they feel better. then run them in over the next 100+ miles with careful braking.

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